Mulch offers many advantages to a planting bed. It conserves moisture, insulates the soil
from temperature extremes, reduces weed germination (or at least makes it
easier to pull them out), adds aesthetic appeal in color and texture variance,
promotes good soil texture without compaction, eliminates cultivating around
the base of plants where roots might be damaged, and prevents rain splash on plants.
Mulches work by eliminating light from weeds;
therefore, the thickness needs to be about 3” thick.
There are 2 kinds of non living mulches:
- Organic - made from plants. Examples are shredded or chipped bark, lawn clippings, and pine cones. Many of these will decompose as they age but this adds nutrients and texture to the soil.
- Inorganic - Examples are rock and gravel, manufactured pellets from tires, plastic sheeting and landscape fabric.
For organic mulches, apply bark chips 2-4” thick
onto the prepared ground. Bark mulch can be stirred up every 4 months to
freshen its look, but should be topped once a year with new mulch If you’re
using lawn clippings, apply in thinner layers, as they become slimy if too
thick.
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By using different colors, sizes, or types of rock,
you can vary the design or effect you want.
Living
mulches
Plants that spread to cover the ground offer a barrier which prevents weeds from becoming
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They
need to be selected for the site conditions and be of the three “L’s”- low
growing, leafy and lush. Be advised that
some plants may become invasive. Try to
choose plants that are low maintenance and attractive. Some examples of these are thyme, junipers,
snow-in-summer, bearberry, bird’s foot trefoil, and goutweed. Plants that spread to cover the ground offer a barrier which prevents weeds from becoming
established.
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Try using mulches in your planting beds...you'll be pleasantly surprised with the results!!
snow in summer photo by: www.birdsandblooms.com
other photos by: Prairie Scapes
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