Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Xeriscaping your Landscape

An alternative to common landscaping practices is xeriscaping. Xeriscaping, which translates to “dry scape” often make people think of a yard with only rocks, mulch, trees and no grass … rather like a desert.  Not so… this method of gardening uses water efficiently, is environmentally friendly and as a result there is less maintenance and costs, leaving more time for you to enjoy your beautiful yard.

The best way to implement these techniques are in the planning stage when a designer can incorporate planting beds, chose plant material for selection and size, plan for the size and shape of lawns, and automated  irrigation, if desired.


Some of these techniques are described below. 
*      Increase the number of planting beds for trees, shrubs and flowers.  Planting beds allows you to place plants together that have similar water requirements, eliminating the need to water parts of the bed more often than others and letting you utilize irrigation systems.  If you terrace the sharp slopes of the yard into beds, you can increase variety in the landscape and reduce water runoff.
*      Add mulch in the perennial planting beds and around trees.  This prevents the loss of moisture, discourages weed seeds from germinating, and compliments the plantings with color and texture.  Mulch can be inorganic, such as gravel or shale (this works best when placed over a landscape fabric), or of organic origin, such as wood chips or pine cones.  Organic mulch decomposes over time, and will need to be replaced, but this adds nutrients and texture to the soil; whereas inorganic mulch lasts longer but is more costly.
*      Select plants that are more suited to drier growing conditions.  There are many wonderful choices of annuals, perennials and trees that are drought resistant.  These can be planted in hot, dry locations that minimize the need for frequent watering.  You can also utilize native plants such as potentilla, which are naturally less thirsty.
*      Improve the soil conditions of your lawn area and planting beds.  This can be done by adding organic matter, such as peat, to increase water holding capacities and provide better aeration for plants roots.
*      Reduce the size of your lawn.  Everyone enjoys the cool, inviting appeal of a lawn, but you don’t need to have huge areas of it; the same effect can be achieved with a much smaller area.  Ways to reduce the lawn size are by replacing sections of it with ornamental grasses; planting beds; low growing, walkable, perennial ground covers such as thyme, stonecrop or mosses; or hardscapes such as decks or patios.
*      Mow the grass blade to a height of 3 inches.  Instead of having a manicured lawn of 1 or 2 inches, this longer length allows the soil and the grass to stay cool.  Weeds will have a more difficult time establishing themselves, lessening the use of herbicides.  If you only cut off 1/3 of the blade each time you mow, there is less stress to the roots and these fine clippings can be left on the lawn to add nitrogen.  This practice reduces the need for fertilizers, which are costly, take time to apply and can lead to polluted runoff.
*      Water the grass less frequently, but for longer periods.  This encourages deeper root growth, therefore enabling it to better survive dry spells.  By designing your lawn shape and size to the configuration of your irrigation system ensures that only the grass is watered, not the sidewalk or the driveway.
*      Put a timer on your irrigation systems.  A timer on a soaker hose or drip system allows water to be applied at the time of day that is most beneficial to plants, usually early morning.  The soil and roots can absorb the moisture before the heat of the day evaporates it and this is the time of day when the demand on the water system is at its lowest. There is also less chance of disease as many organisms thrive in moist, cool surroundings- conditions that evening watering encourages.
*      Plan ahead for the correct choice and location of trees and shrubs, taking into consideration what their mature size will be.  Shrubs should not be invading the sidewalk, nor should you be continually trimming a tree to keep it 5 feet tall when it would naturally like to grow to be 12 feet tall.  Pruning can leave wound sites that attract insects and diseases, often leading to the use of pesticides.  Another way to deter insects is to water the trees and shrubs less often but more deeply.  This discourages a lot of new growth that insects love to eat.
Designing your yard for the future will provide you with many benefits.  You will have a beautifully landscaped yard, more time to enjoy it and have the opportunity to make some wise environmental choices.                                                                                        

References-
1. Editors of Time- life Books (1995)
Low Maintenance Gardening.  U.S.A. Time – Life Inc.

2. Williams,S. (1997)
Creating the Prairie Xeriscape.  Canada






Friday, February 6, 2015

Winterscaping with the Softscapes

Softscapes are the living additions to your landscape. During the winter months, when the deciduous leaves are gone, the coniferous 'leaves' add color and a sense that there is still life in the outdoors. With their many shapes and sizes, evergreens are a welcome sight against the snow.
 

Ornamental grasses are also nice as they blow in the winter breezes.
 

Winterscaping with the Hardscapes


Hardscapes in your yard add interest to the winter landscape. They can be man-made or natural, ornamental or useful (as the bird feeder or house). They can be colorful or neutral, but they do need to stand above the snow line.

Drainage Solutions for Downspout Problems




If you have problems with water from your downspouts discharging onto your sidewalk or driveway, here are 3 possible solutions.

1. You may want to consider an arbor. It can compliment the décor of your home, and provide an attractive entranceway, along with redirecting the runoff. 







2. Another solution may be a french drain.Basically, it’s a rock lined trench, containing a perforated drainage pipe, which carries water from a higher area to a lower area. You do need to ensure that the water is directed to a location on your property or out to a storm sewer, not to your neighbor’s property.



The trench needs to be about 10 -12” deep and decline at a rate of ¼” per foot.   Lay 2” of washed rock (no sand in it), then your 4” perforated drainage pipe, and top with at least another 2” of rock.  Landscape fabric should cover this, then your soil and sod.

The end location can be a dry well, which is an excavated hole about 4’ wide and 3’ deep.  (Check with your local codes for restrictions on sizing.)  It is filled with rock and topped with fabric and then soil.  This well lets the water return to the water table at a slower rate.  Dry wells do not work in clay soil.  Here you need to lead the water to a concrete lined pit with a sump pump, or out to a storm sewer.

In our ‘concrete’ worlds of driveways, sidewalks, and patios, much of our rain water is directed to storm sewers which carry the water to rivers.  Not much is directed downward to replenish the water table.  Wherever possible, use rain barrels to collect runoff or direct the water to a ‘dry well’ where it will get to our recycling center for water.

3. A grate built into your sidewalk.