Fairy Rings in Lawns

Fairy rings are common throughout the world. They are more noticeable and damaging in drier locations, with lighter soils and lower fertility. The first sign of fairy rings may be a ring of mushrooms followed by rings of darker green grass with an inside border of dead grass. Small tan-coloured mushrooms usually develop on the outer border of the ring especially during rainy weather or later in the season. The cause of the ring of dark green grass is due to an increase of nitrogen in the soil, caused from the fairy ring fungus as it decomposes organic matter.

Control: There are no fungicides that will control the mycelium, or underground growth of the fungus. Heavy fertilization and watering may also help to mask the presence of the fairy ring. A complete soaking of the area, in addition to a fertilizer application can not only suppress but may even eradicate the fairy ring.

If only a few rings are present in the lawn it may be practical to excavate the affected area by removing the turf in the area of the ring along with the surrounding 18 inches of soil on both the inside and outside of the ring. The soil should be removed to a depth of at least 2 inches (5 cm) below the zone of the white fungus mat. When removing the affected areas, try to prevent any of the turf or soil from spilling onto healthy areas. Fill the area with fresh top soil and then reseed or re-sod.

Another possible method of eradication is based on the fact that when 2 rings come into contact with each other, they will exhibit antagonistic behaviour, which leads to the death of both rings. To take advantage of this natural control method, one may wish to remove the sod in heavily infested areas, cultivate the soil several times to mix the mycelium of one ring with another and then re-seed or re-sod.

Follow good turf practices of regular fertilizing and deep but non-frequent waterings

Article referenced from: http://www.gardenline.usask.ca/yards/fairy.html ,written by Bonnie Willie 
 Photo by: www.lawnsmith.co.uk

Pruning Techniques

General Guidelines

Before you start to prune any limbs or trees, be sure it’s a job you can manage.  Call in the experts rather than tackling a job that’s too difficult, or if you’re unsure of what you’re doing.

• When trimming a branch, its best to take the time and prune each branch at the bud junction rather than just cut them all off as you might a hedge. The reason for this is that because there is no terminal growth direction, a lot of new shoots (epicormics) will form from the sides of the branch, giving it a top heavy look. These decrease air movement, light and water penetration and are not structurally strong. Crown thinning for a shrub involves cutting back the branch at ground level. Do not take more than 1/3 of the total live crown area in one season.

• Hedges - Informal hedges should be pruned as shrubs. Formal hedges should be shaped so that the top of the hedge is narrower than the bottom. Water and light can then get into the lower regions. Periodically, the hedge needs to be thinned out to prevent it from becoming too dense.

• Do not top a tree. This looks unnatural, promotes epicormics, and deprives the tree from too many leaves. If the top of a tree is broken off, trim it clean to the next shoot. Tie a stick along the length of the tree and tie this new terminal shoot to it. This will give the tree a direction to grow.

• Anvil type pruners (those with a blade that cuts to a flat edge) should not be used as they crush the branch. Scissor type pruners need to be kept sharp (only sharpen the outer edge of the cutting blade.) When using pruners, squeeze the blade up through the branch.

• When pruning out plant parts that are diseased, cut 24” below affected area. Dip your tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water after every cut to prevent spreading the disease.

Larger branches of trees:

If you examine the area where the branch joins the trunk, you will see a collar of swelling around the base of the branch. This is called the branch collar. On the top side of this area there is a crease called the branch bark ridge. Under no circumstances do you cut into either of these areas. A tree does not ‘heal’ but seals off the wound area with a barrier zone. If you cut into the collar, the tree cannot form this barrier, leaving it exposed to infection.

   

If you want to remove a large branch use a “jump cut”.  Start by taking off smaller branches at the far end of the branch which will remove some of the weight. Your first cut will be to the underside of the branch, a few inches from the collar and about 1/3 way through the branch. Secondly, make a cut on the top side about 6-8”past the first cut. Cut through the branch. Stubs are undesirable, so you’ll want to make a last angled cut that goes from the branch bark ridge to the edge of the collar, being careful not to cut into either of these areas. When removing one branch, the remaining branch must be at least ½ the diameter of the one you are removing.

Smaller branches of trees and shrubs:

Make your cut 1/8-1/4” above a bud or leaf at about a 30 degree angle. New growth will begin from that bud and grow in the direction of the bud. (Eg. If the bud is on the left side of the branch, new growth will grow to the left.) If you encourage new growth to the outer direction, the interior of the shrub will not be cluttered.  

Photo by:   gardenaginginplace.com