As you choose the site for your tree or shrub there
are a few things you should take into consideration.
·
The size (height
and width) of the mature plant. Will the
height interfere with any roof overhangs or power lines, or views from
windows? Will the width interfere with
walkways? Will the roots interfere with
any major underground cables?
· The amount of
light and moisture the plant needs, and what it will receive in the proposed
site.
· The need for
shelter from winds.
·
The
aesthetics. Will the color or shape of
the plant compliment other plantings in the vicinity?
· The purpose of
the plant. Do you want it as a focal
point, as a backdrop, or to hide views?
How far do you want it from your dwelling if you want enjoy fragrance or
to attract wildlife (bees, birds, and butterflies, etc.)? Will fallen fruit be a problem?
·
Before you dig,
call Alberta First Call @1-800-242-3447 to locate underground facilities.
Ways to buy trees: 1) containers, 2) bare root (only
available in spring), 3) balled-and-burlapped (BB) or 4) wire basketed. Shrubs are usually sold in containers, but
some of the larger ones may be BB.
Measure the depth of the root ball.
Notice any dark markings on the trunk that show the level of the
soil. You will want the plant to be at
the same level or slightly higher when in the ground, from original planting
height. When refilling the hole, use the
original soil from the site. If you need
to amend the soil, thoroughly mix the amendments into the soil before adding to
the hole. Mark out the area where you
want the plant to go. Dig the hole 2
times wider, than but only as deep as the root ball. If soil is of heavy clay, scrape the sides to
roughen them.
If the tree/shrub is from a container or is bare root,
make a small ‘cone’ of dirt in the bottom of the hole for the plant to sit on,
with it’s roots spreading over it. Remove the container and gently loosen the
outer roots. Prune off any damaged or
dead roots and set the plant into the hole.
For bare root trees, carefully spread the roots evenly around the cone
for stability. Ensure the tree/shrub is
straight and add 1/2 of the soil, gently firming with your hands. Apply water to settle the soil and remove air
pockets. Add soil to fill in the hole
and make a saucer around base of tree, using extra soil. See Fig.12.
Water heavily. Add a 2-3” layer
of mulch around outer edges of well.
Prune only the dead or damaged branches and fertilize only after the
plant becomes established. Do a soil
test before adding fertilizer.
For BB or wire basketed trees, lift the tree from the
root ball, not the stem. The bottom of
the hole needs to be firm. Set the tree
in the hole at the correct depth, loosen the natural burlap and cut off the top
third. The bottom part will decompose.
(If it is wrapped in synthetic burlap, remove as much as possible.) If the tree is in a wire basket, use bolt
cutters to cut off the wire to well below the ground line. As the tree grows, the roots will grow
through the wire. Fill in around the
ball using same method as above.
Staking trees: Small conifers and deciduous trees or
those with low branches or multi-stems do not usually need staking to provide
anchorage. Taller trees and those
planted in windy locations may need to be held steady until the new anchorage
has developed. Observe which way the prevailing
winds blow and if using 1 stake, place it on that side. Up
to 3 short stakes may be needed - they should reach no more than one third of
the height of the trunk. A simple tie at
the top of the stake will reduce the most excessive swaying. (The tie material used to come in contact
with the trunk of the tree should be broad and have a smooth surface to
minimize the trunk abrasion and possible girdling. Some common tie material includes wide cloth
belting, elastic webbing, wide rubber belts, nylon stockings, along with many
patented ties and support devices.) This
will secure the lower trunk and prevent roots from moving while permitting the
tops to move freely. Do not allow staked
trees to remain staked for longer than one
growing season.
The first watering should occur immediately after
planting. It should be thorough, deep
and at a slow rate. Then give a good
watering about every 7 days. The water
should enter the soil near the outer edge of the root ball. This is where the roots hairs are located
(the drip line) and the moisture is absorbed.
As the tree gets larger, the distance of the drip line will be as far
from the trunk as the tree is tall. The
tree needs about 1 gallon of water per 1 foot of height or spread, per
week. Know your soil type. A clay soil will hold water longer; whereas,
a sandy soil will dry out faster.
As fall approaches, decrease watering to discourage a
lot of new growth before winter; but, just before freeze up, water your trees
and shrubs well to ‘freeze in’ the roots.
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