How to Plant Trees and Shrubs

As you choose the site for your tree or shrub there are a few things you should take into consideration.

·      The size (height and width) of the mature plant.  Will the height interfere with any roof overhangs or power lines, or views from windows?  Will the width interfere with walkways?  Will the roots interfere with any major underground cables?

·     The amount of light and moisture the plant needs, and what it will receive in the proposed site.

·      The need for shelter from winds.

·      The aesthetics.  Will the color or shape of the plant compliment other plantings in the vicinity?

·     The purpose of the plant.  Do you want it as a focal point, as a backdrop, or to hide views?  How far do you want it from your dwelling if you want enjoy fragrance or to attract wildlife (bees, birds, and butterflies, etc.)?  Will fallen fruit be a problem?

·         Before you dig, call Alberta First Call @1-800-242-3447 to locate underground facilities.

Ways to buy trees: 1) containers, 2) bare root (only available in spring), 3) balled-and-burlapped (BB) or 4) wire basketed.  Shrubs are usually sold in containers, but some of the larger ones may be BB.  Measure the depth of the root ball.  Notice any dark markings on the trunk that show the level of the soil.  You will want the plant to be at the same level or slightly higher when in the ground, from original planting height.  When refilling the hole, use the original soil from the site.  If you need to amend the soil, thoroughly mix the amendments into the soil before adding to the hole.  Mark out the area where you want the plant to go.  Dig the hole 2 times wider, than but only as deep as the root ball.  If soil is of heavy clay, scrape the sides to roughen them.

If the tree/shrub is from a container or is bare root, make a small ‘cone’ of dirt in the bottom of the hole for the plant to sit on, with it’s roots spreading  over it.  Remove the container and gently loosen the outer roots.  Prune off any damaged or dead roots and set the plant into the hole.  For bare root trees, carefully spread the roots evenly around the cone for stability.  Ensure the tree/shrub is straight and add 1/2 of the soil, gently firming with your hands.  Apply water to settle the soil and remove air pockets.  Add soil to fill in the hole and make a saucer around base of tree, using extra soil.  See Fig.12.  Water heavily.  Add a 2-3” layer of mulch around outer edges of well.  Prune only the dead or damaged branches and fertilize only after the plant becomes established.  Do a soil test before adding fertilizer.

For BB or wire basketed trees, lift the tree from the root ball, not the stem.  The bottom of the hole needs to be firm.  Set the tree in the hole at the correct depth, loosen the natural burlap and cut off the top third.  The bottom part will decompose. (If it is wrapped in synthetic burlap, remove as much as possible.)  If the tree is in a wire basket, use bolt cutters to cut off the wire to well below the ground line.  As the tree grows, the roots will grow through the wire.  Fill in around the ball using same method as above.

Staking trees: Small conifers and deciduous trees or those with low branches or multi-stems do not usually need staking to provide anchorage.  Taller trees and those planted in windy locations may need to be held steady until the new anchorage has developed.  Observe which way the prevailing winds blow and if using 1 stake, place it on that side.  Up to 3 short stakes may be needed - they should reach no more than one third of the height of the trunk.  A simple tie at the top of the stake will reduce the most excessive swaying.  (The tie material used to come in contact with the trunk of the tree should be broad and have a smooth surface to minimize the trunk abrasion and possible girdling.  Some common tie material includes wide cloth belting, elastic webbing, wide rubber belts, nylon stockings, along with many patented ties and support devices.)  This will secure the lower trunk and prevent roots from moving while permitting the tops to move freely.  Do not allow staked trees to remain staked for longer than one growing season.

The first watering should occur immediately after planting.  It should be thorough, deep and at a slow rate.  Then give a good watering about every 7 days.  The water should enter the soil near the outer edge of the root ball.  This is where the roots hairs are located (the drip line) and the moisture is absorbed.  As the tree gets larger, the distance of the drip line will be as far from the trunk as the tree is tall.  The tree needs about 1 gallon of water per 1 foot of height or spread, per week.  Know your soil type.  A clay soil will hold water longer; whereas, a sandy soil will dry out faster. 

As fall approaches, decrease watering to discourage a lot of new growth before winter; but, just before freeze up, water your trees and shrubs well to ‘freeze in’ the roots. 

photo: csfs.colostate.edu

composting

Compost occurs when organic matter such as leaves, grass clippings, and kitchen scraps are converted to humus with the assistance of air, moisture and micro organisms from the soil.
It should not contain meat, oily or cooked food, or dairy products, as these attract vermin. Nor should it contain any pet feces, which may contain diseases, diseased plants or plants treated with pesticide, any thick branches or hard items like peach pits. You may add rhubarb leaves, even though they are toxic and must not be eaten. I do not add weeds to my compost pile, as not to take the chance of them reproducing.

There are 2 kinds of organic products: dry (carbon) and wet (nitrogen). Examples of dry materials are: fallen leaves, straw, small wood chips and shredded newspapers (chopped or shredded material decomposes faster than those left whole). Examples of wet materials are: grass clippings, barnyard manure or kitchen scraps including coffee grounds. These need to be in a ratio of 2 parts dry to 1 part wet. Micro organisms (which do the decomposing) feed on the carbon materials. If you have too much carbon for the amount of micro organisms and the amount of nitrogen, it will take a long time for the process to complete. Layer the materials of dry and wet alternately, sprinkling water and a shovel full of soil between the layers. (The soil adds the micro organisms. You can also add red wriggler worms to speed up the composting.) Turn the pile each week to aerate, as the micro organisms need oxygen to survive. If the process is working well the interior will be steamy and warm; if it is not, add more wet material. (You may also need to water it if the climatic conditions are dry.)

Bin Composting
Bin composting is one type of composting.  You can use a 2 or3 bin system, with each bin being 1 meter cube. Three sides can be constructed of cement blocks or wooden boards, spaced apart so air can circulate. The fourth side should be removable to let you get to the pile to turn it. A covering of chicken wire on a frame will keep out animals while letting air and water to the pile.

In the first bin, start with a layer of about 6" of dry material on bare soil. Layer the pile, as previously stated, until it is about 3' tall and wide.  Water it well the first time and then just enough to keep it damp. You can turn it regularly, or if you're not in a rush, just let it sit. I keep adding to the first bin until fall when I flip into the second bin, topping it off with a layer of soil, and let it sit til the next fall, when it is ready to use. With the first bin empty in the fall, it's a good time to start again with the past summers vegetable and plant matter. (A third bin would give you the opportunity to flip the compost from the second bin, to give more aeration.)

 

photo: www.lassensloves.com