Raised Garden Beds-the Advantages

Last year I got tired of weeding the whole garden, even the spaces that I didn’t plant. So I decided to build some permanent borders around some areas in the garden. I used some recycled fence boards that were about 1 ½” thick and 10” wide. I nailed these together, making a 12” tall ‘box’ that was about 6' across and 10' long. I set them on the ground and dug up the soil that was inside. I added soil from between the beds (since I was no longer going to use that for planting) and some compost. I added bark mulch between the beds (you could used rock mulch too), and found it was so much easier to look after just the beds.

  Some advantages are:

1. Easier to weed since they’re a little higher than ground level.
2. The soil in the beds does not get compacted from being walked upon.
   
   
3. The weeds don’t spread nearly as much because of the wood barrier.
4. There is better drainage.
5. The soil texture and quality is better as you can add compost to only the beds.

A couple of things to remember:

• Make sure you space the beds so you can get a wheel barrow between them.
• Rotate the crops, replanting a crop in the same place only every three years. This is very important to reduce or prevent a build up of soil borne pest and plant diseases, plus any depletion of crop specific nutrients.  

 Photo by: ana-white.com

•  

Balcony Gardens

For people who live in apartments or high rise condos, a balcony is your yard. A few plants can add color and freshness to the lifelessness of the concrete or metal surroundings.


When planning what to grow on your balcony, a few things need to be considered first.
Are there any regulations concerning placing plants on your balcony? What is below you, and what or who, will any water land on. A planter on a saucer or tray will help eliminate any overflow of water.  You'll need to check on the moisture content of the soil at least once a day and water them thoroughly.

What is your type of microclimate- is it sunny or shady, windy or sheltered? Since horizontal space is limited, do you have room to grow things vertical, such as a trellis; or can you hang pots from hangers.

Please refer to 'Design - Container gardening: parts 2 and 3' for planting specifics.

photo:moderndesignideas.com

Container Gardening- Part 3: Planting

1.     Arrange the plants (while still in their pots) on top of the container. You will want a ‘thriller’- the tall eye catching plant, a ‘filler’- they fill in the middle ground, and a ‘spiller’- the plants that spill over the container edge.

For a front facing planter, you will want to place the ‘thriller’ at the back, with the ‘filler’ next, and the ‘spiller’ at the outer edge.

With a planter that you will see from all angles, the ‘thriller’ would be in the center, or just off center, surrounded by the ‘fillers’ and then the ‘spillers’.

2.     As you take the plants off of the container, you will want to plant the ‘thriller’ first. Holding the stem between your fingers, and the soil in your palm, tip the pot upside down and tap the bottom to loosen the root ball. As you position your plants, gently pack the soil around them to squeeze out the larger air pockets. Keep the soil at the same level on the plant as it was in the original pot. You can position the plants closely to give a fuller appearance. Continue to add your plants, along with the soil, so that when completed there is about 2 cm, or 1”, between the soil and the lip of the container.

3.     Try to keep the newly transplanted plants out of direct sunlight for a day or two, to help minimize their shock. You will want to fertilize them with a transplant fertilizer, like 10-20-10; and then change to a water soluble, all-purpose one, but only ½ strength, when new growth begins.

4.     Check your plants at least once daily and water when the soil feels dry 2-3 cm below the surface. Morning watering is preferred, if possible.

5.     Deadhead blossoms regularly so the plants will continue to bloom, rather than trying to set seed. 
      photo: www.cascadialandscape.com

Container Gardening - Part 2 : Getting Ready

A few things to check before the planting begins:

1.     Size of container- The size of your container should be in proportion to the area in which you place it. A large planter may be too big for your landing, or a small one may be lost amongst the other plants in the garden. A window box should almost extend the length of the ledge it is either on, or under. The plants should also be in proportion to the size of the container.

2.     Before you begin filling your hanging container with soil and plants, ensure that the place for which you have planned, can hold the weight of a watered planter. They will become heavy! You may also want to consider how accessible it is for you to water, and what may be affected by any overflow (eg. a step that may become slippery).

3.     You may want to position your other containers in their permanent locations before you fill them, as they may become too heavy to move.

4.     Make sure your containers have good drainage. (Place some plastic window screen over the holes to keep out insects and slugs.)

5.     Use lightly moistened, lightweight potting soil or a soilless mixture, and fill your planter to within a few centimeters from the top.

6.     Water your plants a few hours prior to planting, as a damp rootball stays together better.

Annuals do well in containers because of their smaller and more condensed root system. When choosing plants for your containers, select varieties that like the same growing conditions, such as sun or shade. Also try to select colors that compliment each other such as blue with yellow or orange; red with green, clear blue or white; purples with yellows and whites.

A few  plant choices for shady spots are: begonias, fuchias, lobelia, pansies, spider plants, impatiens, coleus, nemesia. For sunny spots: portulaca, petunias, dracaena, celosia, marigold, statice, verbena, creeping jenny, heliotrope. For windy spots: ivies, scaevola, fibrous begonia, portulaca, petunia ('Maddness' variety).